Beta Spray and the FFA

Yesterday, Outside Online published an article written by Flash Foxy founder Shelma Jun titled, "How Gender Affects Your Experience at the Climbing Gym." For those of us who aren't hip to it or simply followed Flash Foxy on Instagram because UNBGBBIIVCHIDCTIICBG, Flash Foxy is:

 ...a place where women can come to feel inspired by and connected to lady climbers. We share stories about our thoughts, experiences and adventures as badass women.

They are indeed badass women and you should probably stop reading here, go to their website, and never look back. This gender article initially rubbed me the wrong way because it confronted an issue I was blissfully ignorant to.  It also twisted my panties because now I feel like I've been perceived as one who, "sprays you down with bad beta while staring at your sports bra." Please believe me when I say, that was not my intention, and also my beta is spot on so...

#spraylords #theisland #za #allez #allezparis #climbfrance #dabpolice #dai #dou #climbing #rockclimbers #boulderers #muggles #gumbies #nokooks #localsonly #climbnewhampshire #eastcoastclimbing #granite #mtrainier #dai #dou #jim #rawksstars

A photo posted by @rawk_tawk on Sep 8, 2016 at 4:23pm PDT

The more I thought about the article, the more validity I realized it had. Not only did Flash Foxy do a real statistical survey involving letters, numbers, and symbols more complex than 8C+,  but I also listened to the struggles and frustrations of gym climbing my girlfriend has to deal with when she goes to the gym alone. Just the other day, she was sprayed with bad beta by some gym guys climbing below her level. While she was on the wall, she felt compelled to try their beta as they shouted it encouragingly from the pads, and ended up falling instead of thinking it through herself. Now it is important to note that I am not saying one shouldn't climb with or take advice from climbers at a lower level. Climbing isn't about that, hopefully. However, unwanted beta or suggestions are frustrating because they take away from the mental puzzle climbing offers. I can only imagine the frustration growing when you know the beta spray is directed at you because you have ovaries.

Shelma offered some basic tips on how to reign your manliness in at the gym, but her best advice was just to acknowledge that this problem exists. Her study was focused on gym climbing, however there is an even greater issue at hand: The First Female Ascent.

Almost a year ago Andrew Bisharat wrote what I thought was a fantastic article titled, "The Curse of the First Female Ascent." Please read it for yourself, but the main idea was that putting the FFA label (not to be confused with 'first free ascent') on a route both celebrates the accomplishments of women in the sport, but also holds them back. I tend to agree, but lean toward abolishing the designation in guidebooks altogether. As usual, @rawk_tawk pretty much nails it with another meme.

#yas #gumbies #gympimps #gumbos #rawktawk #climbingjokes #jokesinthewoods #rocks #flashedit #doneit #doneitagain #mystical #brosemite #santagnarbra #bishoplife #granite #dai #dou #climbers #climbingphotography #steeze #steez #jimmywebb #andrewbisharat #rockandice

A photo posted by @rawk_tawk on Jan 29, 2016 at 4:13pm PST

Now what I say next might cue the pitchforks stick clips and angry smelly mobs, but luckily I don't have nearly as many followers as Bisharat, so deal with it. FFA's definitely hold back the progress of the sport as well as the women and men who choose to participate. A first ascent is so special because before a (hard) route or problem is climbed, it's kind of like Schrodinger's Cat. It may be climbable or it may not. We don't know until we open the box and find a dead cat or a stoked climber clipping the chains. Once we know the route is possible we know that other people can and will climb it. When a hard climb has seen a first ascent, that's it. The mystique is gone, someone else has grappled with the weird holds, trusted the negligible feet, and cranked it to the top. Putting an FFA in the books makes it seem as though a woman could not have taken the first ascent and needed a guy to show her the beta, to show her it's possible. Screw that.

Women are pushing the boundaries of the sport just as much as the men, and deserve the credit for it. Let's celebrate when a woman climbs a hard route that would turn the tendons of us mortals to dust! If it's the first ascent, then let's scroll her name in the guidebook mountain project to be hallowed for all eternity. Should there then be a First Male Ascent if a guy climbs the route next? If it's the first female ascent, but some dude nabbed the FA in the late 90's, can't we just celebrate that a talented climber repeated an insanely hard route?

In many sports there is a clear distinction between men and women. For instance, the world record time for running a mile is: 3:43.13 for men and 4:12.56 for women. In climbing, that line is no where near as vivid, or even there to begin with. Each route, especially at the top end, is suited to a particular style; power, finesse, balance, strength, and height all play a role in topping out  clipping the anchors. So let's celebrate the individual for using their strengths and overcoming their weaknesses to get the send. Other than that, let's keep our beta spray in check and continue searching for whatever it is that hangs out at the crag and remains just out of reach.

One of @brittboo10 #sending at Clear Creek Canyon. #womenofclimbing #sportclimbing #colorado

A photo posted by J Beans (@mr_jonathanr) on Jun 29, 2016 at 6:57pm PDT