Gyms and Crags and Crowds

My initial intention was to write a piece about gym climbers going to your local crag and totally ruining your stoke. Though, I think Andrew Bisharat wrote an exceptional rant about it in his blog so I don't have to. It's called "Climbing Gyms aren't the Problem; Assholes Are." You should give it a read. Not only is this man not afraid to throw a semicolon into his title, but his self reflection is as honest as can be, and that's something I'm still working toward.

So last night during my endurance traverse, (I was trying to do two thirty minute sets of easy jugs) I admit I got pissed when the wall space shrank to five feet of overhanging crimps. The gym was filled with people in uncomfortable rental gear. Eventually there was barely even space to stand. You've probably experienced this disconcertment at your local crag. There were more than a few days at Black Corridor or Panty Wall in Red Rock when you'd have to stand in line to climb something easier than 5.11. But you know what? My climbing partner and I woke up early the next time and had the corridor to ourselves for as long as our fingers lasted.

 There are like three other climbing parties here, time to leave. (Black Corridor)

As I sat pondering whether or not to go home, there was this super strong woman going for a funky V6. She fell off on the last move and her friends let out an audible, "Awwwww!" I saw her get back on a few minutes later, but this time the entire gym was behind her with all the "C'mon's" they could muster. There was this tension building in the gym as she moved to dyno and set her feet. There couldn't have been more than forty people in the space, but they sounded like a packed stadium. She missed the jug and fell to the mats. This time the, 'Awwww!' shook the floor. I may have been part of the screaming crowd too, and despite a shortened workout, I left with a smile.